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In Rome, some of the best introductions happen over a plate of pasta. The Colosseum and Trevi Fountain may draw the crowds, but food often gives a visit its most lasting memories: carbonara sharpened with pecorino and pepper, warm pizza bianca from a bakery, or a small cup of gelato after an evening walk. This is the pleasure of eating your way through a city, treating food as part of the itinerary rather than a break between sights. In Rome, a dish can lead you into a neighb